Originally reported for NCC News on November 29, 2010.
The
Columbus Baking Co. on Pearl St. in downtown Syracuse does one thing—bakes bread—and no one does it better.
“We have been doing the same process since day one,” says Jimmy Retzos, a third generation Greek baker. “It’s gone through decades, over a century of making just one type of
bread.”
The senses are overwhelmed as one stands inside the bakery. The smell of fresh bread—at each of its many stages—is enough to start one salivating. There is an uncanny rhythm to the sounds of the antique, yet reliable, bread-making equipment. The heat coming from the wood burning oven not only bakes the bread, but also doubles as a makeshift furnace on cool winter mornings. However, the one sense reserved for the experienced touch of the bakers is the lengthy process of preparing the dough for the oven.
“From start to finish, one dough takes about four hours,” says Retzos. “We take it out...cut it into 20 ounce pieces…it rests again for about 20 minutes to half an hour, then we shape it and then we put in the oven.”
The entire process, including the 30-40 minutes it takes to bake the bread, repeats itself throughout the morning.
One interesting anecdote customers may notice upon entering the bakery is the lack of conversation among the staff. There are two interesting reasons for this. First, the bakers have been doing it together for so long, each person knows what needs to be done and just does it. Second, the staff members, come from very diverse backgrounds and do not share one common language, but rely on a common ‘unspoken’ language.
Although a very miniscule number of dissenters balk at the price for one of their loaves of bread, the overwhelming majority would travel across the country to taste it.
Undoubtedly, the success, as well as the future, of the bakery are due to the compassion of its employees. Jimmy Retzos started when he was merely 14 years old and has done it for more than 37 years. He says, baking bread was his first job and it will be his last one.